Wolverine-Hawkeye Telecine

[Mattias Norberg]

Thanks for the comments Bruce, Mattias and David. Yes I forget that every time until I notice those nasty smudges in the bright areas.
I tried a few things. Photoshop contrast increase does help and removes some of the "fogginess" but AviSynth contrast is not very good. It multiplies the pixel values by a contrast ratio driving the whites into saturation.
Will check daVinci. Used it for a while some time ago. It eats up memory on my laptop and sometimes will cause my cursor to start jumping around. So not really keen or running it again.

ok

i think if you lower the Gamma so the image gets little darker on the final HDR image you get less "fogginess"

and there maybe still lens flare from very bright areas of the image that can do some lens flare and "fogginess"


test to lower the gamma in avisynth like this example

RGBAdjust(rg=0.8, gg=0.8, bg=0.8)

image sequence is in RGB Color format Original but many avisynth filters does convert it to YUV Color format and many filters only works in YUV Color format
http://avisynth.nl/index.php/Convert

when i use DaVinci Resolve i always start to correct the shadows and i look on the RGB Parade Scope and lower the shadows that Red Green Blue channel are equaly low to Zero or almost = Black
then i pull up the highlights about equaly high to the top or almost it depends if you have pure white in the image then equaly high

last i adjust the Midtones=Gamma to what looks good for me i do not use the RGB Parade Scope here only if i need to balance the color

the Hdr i did with Enfuse i have to lower the Midtones=Gamma to about -0.05 to -0.10 so it does not look flat

but when i use Avisynth Hdr script i have the Midtones=Gamma about +0.03 to +0.08

i try to have Midtones=Gamma as high as possible but if to high it start to get flat looking

this is very basic color correction im not a professional so i do not know better

DaVinci Resolve color wheel and RGB Parade Scope
mouse up and down adjust Red and Green channel but Blue channel is still
mouse left and right adjust Blue channel but Red and Green channel are still

[Stan Jelavic]

Thanks Mattias. Good suggestions. Looks like the HDR video needs just a bit of gamma adjustment. I used the custom curve.
The shadows do get a bit darker (notice the split sceen showing the difference). It is a compromise I guess.



The fogginess is almost gone:



On another note, the DR scope shows that the import from bmp images filled the whole 10bit
range. I did not have to do any tweaking there:

[Mattias Norberg]

Yes looks good i did have the same "fogginess" with Enfuse hdr

the DR scope maybe shows that the shadows have little more Blue then Red and Green channel

the same is for highlights but that is ok because the sky is blue

[Stan Jelavic]

I also used Enfuse.
The blue in the deep shadows is maybe the lens flare from the previous frame because the sky from the previous frame is close to the shadows of the current frame.Can be easily verified if the previous frame gets masked.

[Mattias Norberg]

I also used Enfuse.
The blue in the deep shadows is maybe the lens flare from the previous frame because the sky from the previous frame is close to the shadows of the current frame.Can be easily verified if the previous frame gets masked.

Yes you are right that's maybe it

[Stan Jelavic]

Masking out the previous frame shifts the scope curves down and reduces the blue. This confirms that the flare from the previous frame has some contribution.

The previous frame flare also adds to image fogginess.


We should probably look at creating a mask over the gate. I will make one by using a sticky label.
Paint it with #3 black paint and make a cutout close to the 8mm film size + some tolerance. Not sure if it will work for both types of film.

[Mattias Norberg]

Stan looks good

hmm i was thinking if this also can have some impact

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3365009
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apochromat


i have some APO lenses they are more expensive

here is all my lenses and how much i did pay for them Rodenstock APO-RODAGON D f=75mm 1:4,0 is the best and sharpest even wide open Aperture i do not need to stop it down like all the other lenses i have
and it's even sharp whole frame i mean center sharpness is the same as corner sharpness in the frame wide open Aperture
other lenses i have to stop down to f/5.6 aperture and more to get even sharpness on the whole frame

LINOS MeVis-C 50mm takes the second place it's ok lens to i did buy it because VideoFred did use that lens on his Super 8mm and he did say it was sharp
but Rodenstock APO-RODAGON D f=75mm 1:4,0 is better

Rodenstock APO-RODAGON D f=75mm 1:4,0...................181 euro
Rodenstock APO RODAGON N 2,8/50mm........................270 euro
Leica Leitz Focotar-2 1:4.5/50....................................121 euro
SCHNEIDER KREUZNACH OPTIC Componon-s f/ 2.8 50mm....59 euro
LINOS MeVis-C 50mm.............................................. ..312 euro
LINOS MeVis-C 16mm.............................................. ..Do not remember maybe 200 euro
TECHSPEC® Compact Fixed Focal Length lenses 35mm......280 euro

i did buy all from Ebay except TECHSPEC® Compact Fixed Focal Length lenses 35mm that was from https://www.edmundoptics.com/

it was from this site i did find out how good Rodenstock APO-RODAGON D f=75mm 1:4,0 is
http://coinimaging.com/Lens_tests.html?

here you have Hall of Fame 1x lenses

http://coinimaging.com/hall_of_fame.html?


one more thing maybe it's possible to stop down the aperture on the 12mm and 16mm lens you have if that have some impact on lens flare just thinking out loud

[Stan Jelavic]

Lots of interesting info Mattias. What magnification do you use?
These lenses are too large for Hawkeye.
The front panel would have to be redesigned to allow for larger lenses.
Maybe HawkeyeII

[Mattias Norberg]

Lots of interesting info Mattias. What magnification do you use?
These lenses are too large for Hawkeye.
The front panel would have to be redesigned to allow for larger lenses.
Maybe HawkeyeII

Ok
The camera i have is DFK 23G274 and the sensor size is ¹/_1.8 inch so it's about the same size as Super 8mm then the magnification should be about 1x

here is old picture when i did test on film scanning
https://www.flickr.com/photos/94271811@N03/11007177505/

and here is some more old 8mm film scanning DIY stuff and HDR examples https://www.flickr.com/photos/942718...h/11013222224/

[David Brown]

Mattias, you and Stan have been doing this for years! I remember having some super 8 digitized in the late 80's to VHS (Kodak flying spot scanner). Shooting a projected image off the wall in the 90's with a video camera and again commercially digitized in the early 2k years to DVD.

Of course it is always too expensive to have everything done and soon you find what you did pay for becomes obsolete!

Stan, I'm also going to do a mask for each format. Something removable from cardboard, plastic, or 3D printed. Looks like the mask needs to be at least 1.5 mm thick to keep from slipping out of alignment. So if flaring is not obvious, then contrast can still suffer.

I don't think that the sprocket holes are needed for alignment anymore. Stabilizers can lock onto other parts of the shot. If you watch any captures that include the sprocket holes, you should notice that the are not always constant. That's hard to believe they can move, but they do. Most the of the movement is lateral. I've seen this with films other than mine.

This is another thing that is hard to believe! How on earth could this dog have been sharpened???? Mattias, was this done with AVIsynth?

[Mattias Norberg]

This is another thing that is hard to believe! How on earth could this dog have been sharpened???? Mattias, was this done with AVIsynth?

i think i did start with super 8mm DIY scanning about 2012 maybe

Yes it's avisynth script you find it in POST Nr: #720 https://8mmforum.film-tech.com/vbb/f...3050#post13050 it's very slow about 0.3 fps if i remember right

i did little over sharpening on that picture

[Stan Jelavic]

That sharpening function is pretty incredible. Will have to try it.
David, I am trying just black electrical tape and it seems to work. Will have to run a video with it.

[Stan Jelavic]

Here is the HDR video with the new mask. The mask is a bit larger than the gate. Almost zero lens flare. Some flare is present towards the end of the video, with the church in the background but I believe that is in the original. Will check with the microscope.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18O3...ew?usp=sharing

[Mattias Norberg]

Here is the HDR video with the new mask. The mask is a bit larger than the gate. Almost zero lens flare. Some flare is present towards the end of the video, with the church in the background but I believe that is in the original. Will check with the microscope.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18O3...ew?usp=sharing

Looks good no fogginess

the fps in the film looks like in Slowmotion maybe this film is 24fps and not 18fps
i know Super 8mm can be recorded in 18 fps or 24 fps

or you maybe did slow down so it's easier to see the details

[Bruce Davis]

Hi Stan, Mattias, David, Stan your video does look much better, there is more contrast and the video is slightly darker (may just be the effect of the extra contrast). The misty fogginess is gone, this result is very good. Intrigued by the masking, has this helped to eliminated the fogginess or does it only have an effect on lens flare.
Good work
Regards - Bruce