Wolverine-Hawkeye Telecine

[Stan Jelavic]

You guessed it right Mattias. I set the frame rate at 10.
Bruce, the mask definitely eliminates the lens flare which is the main contributor to fogginess.
As a result the histogram gets shifted to the left and appears darker to the eye.
The shadows can probably be brightened a bit by increasing the the high exposure a bit but may produce
more washed out look. I.e. more contrast gives that vivid look.
It would be a good idea to get the mask printed out and find some way of clipping it to the gate cover. It would benefit
both cameras and HDR and non HDR setups.

[David Brown]

It looks better Stan, and the masking is where I think it should go. Just enough of the sprocket hole and the right margin to feel confident later when editing.

A warning to all: I was fitting a piece of foam (cupboard shelving cover) into the light opening. I used some tweezers to remove it and scratched the surface. It shows, slightly out of focus, but dark. It might not be noticeable with an image on film. I've just looked on ebay and the Moviemaker Pro machines are only half priced if they do not work!? That one is already sold. I will send a note to Wolverine-data to see if a replacement part is available.

I'm going to try some electrical tape now. That seems fast (even if doing 8mm/S8mm) if only masking the left and right margins. They will be different if masking the entire frame, not just the margins.

[Stan Jelavic]

David, I have a few extra Moviemaker machines (some regular some pro). Wanted to use them for experimenting. I can send you the light from one of them.
Actually fitting a mask inside the gate sounds like a good idea (except for the tweezers). Possibly do a 3d print based on the overscan of the gate and film.
I piece of masking tape could be used to remove it.

[David Brown]

Thank you Stan, I am interested. I'm waiting for a reply from Wolverine-data.

Could the machines you have be upgraded for someone who wants a complete Hawkeye? You'd need the light!

I would bet there is no difference between a Regular or Pro other than the electronics or the number of pulleys. Looks like I need to open the case up and see how this light housing comes out. I might be able to replace the white plastic.

Still interested.

[Stan Jelavic]

I have a few pro units reserved but in addition I have a few regular units that I planned just for testing. On one of them I took apart the light assembly and can send you some pics what it looks like tomorrow some time.

[David Brown]

Stan, I'm still anxious to see your pictures.

Wolverine Data wants $60. $40 for parts and labor, & $20 shipping. Guess they don't want to just sell the part!

I opened the light and found the "glass" is 1/32" plastic glued in place. You already know that by now. I was able to rotate the "glass" 180 degrees and the scratch is no longer in view. Worst case one could just remove the "glass" and not replace it.


Now I have a more accurate measurement of the opening. 12mm X 11.8mm. That's with a small clearance on both sides.

[Stan Jelavic]

Good work David. Do you plan to make a 3D mask print?

[David Brown]

I will make a printed mask, but to do something quickly, I tried to use electrical tape. That is tricky. How did you do that?
Of 'course I'm extra careful with the tweezers, but it is hit and miss. Is your tape on the light surface or just under the film?

Here is a source for the light cover. Pretty cheap, but might be difficult to cut even as thin as it is. 31.5mm x 24mm

https://www.amazon.com/Lexan-Sheet-P.../dp/B004S7Z36W

[Stan Jelavic]

I put the tape right on the top of the gate flap. with the film in the right position I move the tape until I can see it in the camera preview and repeat the process for all 4 sides. It is tricky and it takes time to get it right.
This is by no means a good solution but ok for testing.

[David Brown]

OK, well your sample had a crisp edge. I decided print a mask and discovered that I still had not installed a number of apps since my drive failed, like F360 or S3d! made a couple of prints that are rough. There is a curious shadow that I need to figure out.

Tape on top of the gate sounds quick. I would have expected a soft edge. Without going back a few pages, I remember you had a crisp mask.

R8 will be different than S8 because the sprocket holes are larger, it will need a larger mask.

This is the shadow. The mask is under the film and ends at the edge of the sprocket hole, but I'll work more on that tomorrow.

[Stan Jelavic]

The tape on the top of the gate flap also produces shadow that is very narrow.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3EWfqmsywG3c2wb36

You would think that as you get closer to the film the shadow would become narrower.
But if you let the shadow fall over the sprocket hole, it will still do the job.
I left some of the sprocket hole uncovered and did not see and flare from it.

[Stan Jelavic]

We had people asking questions on what size spacers to use with the camera. How long should the lens holder be, how far is the optical center of the lens etc.
I put together a spreadsheet that will help answer some of these questions. Did a quick sanity check with it and it is pretty close.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fjr...ew?usp=sharing
To use the spreadsheet,enter the horizontal resolution of the final image. The spreadsheet will give you the spacer length and how far the tip of the lens is to the camera board.

[Stan Jelavic]

O
This is the shadow. The mask is under the film and ends at the edge of the sprocket hole, but I'll work more on that tomorrow.

The shadow seems to be coming from the material thick edge. The edge would have to painted black to prevent the light seeping through it.

[Kamel Ikhlef]

Hello everybody, I hope you are all well.
I return to the 'Hawkeye' adventure initiated by Stan.
I have been reading your posts for some time and there are a lot of very interesting experiences going on on the forum.
For the gate mask, if you give me a little drawing I can design it. maybe a small frame that hooks with small lugs on the door opening.
Finally it is just an idea.

Stan, I'm finally going to resume the V12 PCB. I would like to complete it and add some modifications.
Drawing attached, could you help me. I do not know the values of the components: R2, R13, R14, R15.

the small bridging near the power RGB led resistors is what? I would also like to have a led that lights up each time a sync is sent to the camera because my hawkeye will be fully closed (REC led).

I would also like to add the switches for camera fan, capstan and buzzer. I don't know how to connect them to the V12 or whether to create a small daughter pcb.

I was very late, the front panel is not yet finalized. I'll post the design as soon as it's finished.
All of your experiences are very inspiring and motivating. Thanks to All.

BTW: I ordered the 16mm F5.6 lens from Aico. I'm waiting for him. What size do you use for the spacers (20 or 22mm).

[Stan Jelavic]

Welcome back Kamel.
Looks like for gate mask it will be an insert that slips into the gate opening. Thanks for offering your help.



This is a rough measurement and you might have to tweak it a few times. The thickness of the material should be around 2mm.
The material should be as black as possible. Alternatively it can be painted after it is printed.
It would be nice to have a few blind holes so it can be gripped with the tweezers.

R2 is not needed.
R13,14, and 15 are led bias resistors and their value depends on the LED that you want to use and how bright you want them.
I suggest try it on a bench first i.e. get some LEDs and test different resistor values.


I tried a 3 color LED and was not very happy with the results. Individual LEDs are better.

J32 to J34 jumper is in to drive the camera sync from 3,3V. AT the time when I designed the V12 I was not sure if I should power the sync from
3.3V or 5V so I added those pads so that the circuit can be reconfigured if required.
But after lots of testing I determined that 3.3V is OK and the jumper stays in.

J61 and J62 will give you a short 3.3V sync pulse and you can power the sync LED from there. The pulse is very short and the LED flash may be visible.
You can extend the pulse duration in MSP but not too long because this could impact the camera operation.
Another alternative is to use a pulse extender.

For camera fan you can just use the 12V and ground from V12.


The buzzer connects to the sonalert pads on the board. Just wire a switch in series with the buzzer on either side.
I redesigned the capstan functionality in V12. The new capstan just stops the stepper and turns the buzzer on
when the film jams.
Not sure if you wanted to use it that way?
It is still possible to use it the old way. If that is what you want then just put the switch in series with the capstan motor white (gray)
wire.
I posted the spreadsheet for spacer length calculation today.
For the BUC02 camera 25mm soacer will give you 1280x1024 resolution for S8
20mm spacer will give you 1750x1300 resolution for S8

20mm still gives nice and sharp image across the whole frame. The issue is that with R8 you will have to go lower rez. Possibly 22mm spacers but I have not tested it.