Wolverine-Hawkeye Telecine

[Bruce Davis]

Hi Stan, have not looked at them for some time, have to try and find them (have uploaded to One Drive).
It is a real problem as each printer is set up slightly differently, there is no strict standard to calibration, type of filament, speed, extrusion, Layer ht, temperature, slicer etc. it can be quite complex, printer settings and calibration are important to get the result you need, being able to edit the part in combination with local access to a printer to test is important for best results.

With the prices that you are being charged by Shapeways for each part, the experimentation to get things right could be expensive. With 3D printing there can be variations from one order you place to another perhaps some weeks/months later.

I have found that placing the toothed capstan in the second position is better than the first position (have only tried the two locations). Another very important improvement was to press fit a 2mm ID x 3mm OD brass extension tube over the 2mm dia capstan motor shaft. This gives more through support to the printed plastic part and a larger dia bearing surface area improving both concentric running and the wobble problem. It is also important to have two grub screws on opposing sides for any minor adjustment.

Kamel's suggestion about investing in a printer may be a valid one, but might not be worthwhile if capstan parts are the only use for it (how many are you ever going to require). There are cheap Chinese printers available for $180 to $300 (that's probably 10 parts from Shapeways), make sure the printer has a direct drive extruder, best for small intricate parts.

My Last Versions -
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AtIUdJCJJJGigQdC...bP944?e=3BxHlY

Regards - Bruce

[Stan Jelavic]

Thank you both. Very good inputs and advice. At this point I just thought to enable the users to get their own parts and potentially from a single supplier so that the parts have less variations. Since the whole project is open source I thought would be a good idea to have capstan included. But we will see. As you both pointed out it gets expensive pretty fast to try these different variations and the interest in capstan is not there.
BTW - the first position works better for me for active capstan and the second position is ok for a monitor and alert only.

[Stan Jelavic]

Back to the HDR issue:
Received an input from Arducam. Copying here their response:


Q1：The center of the image is pink and green towards the edges.

There will be lens shading problems due to the mismatch of optical parameters between the lens and the sensor. We need to fix the lens shading for each lens. This is not an easy task for users. [FONT=""]If you need, we can re-correct the lens you use.

Q2: [FONT=""]Which V4L2 player do you recommend that would support HDR because my main reason for selecting this [FONT=""]camera is HDR capability and QTcam does noto support that.[/FONT][/FONT]

For the ar1335, the HDR effect is not very good, because the 1335 is not a highly dynamic sensor. [/FONT][FONT=""]The HDR effect of our current ISP is not very good. If you want to use HDR cameara, I advise you user our 1080P hdr sensor AR0230.

Let me know if you need more help.

So now I plan to return the AR1335 and get the AR0230. I also asked Arducam if they plan to add the USB shield to it. They already have the shield (separate board) but the FW on it has to be updated (I assume).

[Bruce Davis]

Stan seems that pixel size has much to do with the capability of these cameras (1.1 um vs 3.0um) and dynamic range (69dB to 105dB). The max resolution of the AR0230 limits its application but I get it that you want to test the HDR performance before moving on.
Regards - Bruce

[Stan Jelavic]

That is the general idea Bruce. I ordered the 0230 and returning the 1335.

[Stan Jelavic]

Here is another version of the AR0230:
https://www.amazon.com/Arducam-Camer...dp/B07ZS9KSZR/
May be easier to use this one for testing by using the Windows app.

[David Brown]

Hi Stan. I don't have the capstan installed right now. I put that on the back burner until I got on top of post processing. In my opinion, I will probably use the rubber smooth roller. It works for either format, printed variations won't matter, and it might work in either position. Of'course it will only alarm, not pull the film forward with a bad splice. The only torn perforations I have, I created for testing.

That said, I've not inspected the film I have waiting on the shelf or more boxes of film a friend of mine has left with me! I would rather have Hawkeye shut down if I'm not watching it or alarm to get my attention. If the capstan can pull the film forward and continue, I would need to rewind and look for those missing frames. BUT, it might be best to just leave all the captured jumps than try to advance the frames by hand and capture each one.

So I had capstan problems with alignment in the first position where the perforations missed the teeth. Not enough torque in the second position to pull the film thru.

The last problem I had was with the smooth rubber pulley in the second position. There needs to be some continuous tension from the take up reel or the film goes slack on the pulley. Then the alarm sounds because it's not rotating.

I plan to revisit this after I update the firmware and test the adjusted take up timing. After tweaking my printer too many times to get the the mask size to be a tight fit, I'm with Bruce, printing those tiny teeth can have a lot of variation. Maybe you could make Shapeways verify the printed dimensions?

STAN, don't buy a printer yet! You'll be spending all your time on the printer forums.

I'm ok with 3mm inserts, 2mm is too small to get right. Better to use a set screw. I think the brass sleeve on the motor shaft with 2 screws did help fix the wobble.

This is all I ever got from Windows Camera. Brightness, this is with the Pro settings? There are some paid camera apps, that should be more detailed than Windows, I never tried them.

This is the webcam I bought off Amazon. The same sensor used with the 72buc02, 3.6 mm lens, and different board/hardware.

[Stan Jelavic]

Thank you David for the capstan heads up. You sent me a few pages of instructions detailing what to do with Kame's and Bruce's designs. The instructions state to use the set screws without brass inserts for Bruce's design combined with the brass tubing for motor shaft.
For Kamel's design got to drill am 1/8" to open up the center hole. I believe Kamel uses the 2mm brass inserts.
I increased the takeup torque for high speed and made sure that the film stays engaged with the capstan right from the start. Would be good to get your input on that. This is included in the latest published FW.
I personally prefer the capstan monitor function only but still tested the active version for other users. Seems to work OK (the active one) in the first position with the new FW. It does not have enough torque in the 2nd position (same as what you observed). But the monitor is is just fine in the 2nd position.
I just ordered the USB AR0230 camera from Amazon. This is the windows program that can be used with it:
https://www.arducam.com/docs/uvc-cam...m-usb-cameras/

[David Brown]

Hi Stan. Yes Amcap has a lot more settings than Windows camera.

I seem to be hitting obstacles on each leg of these updates. I know Git hub is not just cloud storage and I might have downloaded V12_hdr_turbo incompletely. Nothing appears in the list. I assume the procedure is to import project. It's been a while since I did this. Any notes I had were lost with my hard drive.


Are these all the files needed to compile?

[Stan Jelavic]

Sometimes github filters the files out. Put workspace_v9.zip onto my goggle drive. Should have all the files you need.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...V1?usp=sharing

[Stan Jelavic]

Hi Kamel, looks like your standard back pulley (hub) has threads to use the set screw without the brass inserts, same as the other one.

[Kamel Ikhlef]

Hi Stan,
For the Back capstan pulley I now use it without brass inserts with M2.5x6 screws.
But for all other parts I prefer to put inserts, it is more precise and more solid.
For the capstan, I am waiting to make the changes I wanted.
Maybe find a motor with more torque to make it active even in 3rd position?
what do you think ?

[Stan Jelavic]

Thanks Kamel. Higher torque motor is a good idea. I will check.
The new motor fits ok in the first position. Still don't have your design printed out but tested it with the old bracket just to check the fit.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/jUvQxXFTzjyHAj9y5

[Kamel Ikhlef]

Stan,
Here a new large support, taking into account the margin noted on your test with the old support (+4mm on right).

[David Brown]

Stan to the rescue, I hope! I found I had not installed Code Composer and did it again. While trying to update the FW I had errors in CC. One of my two errors that took a while to resolve, is the compiler version has now changed. The correct version was available and is now ok.


This has to to do with 2 MSP30G2231 chips I have. #1 has Hawkeye V7 installed. #2 has Hawkeye V12. They both work when installed in Hawkeye.

When I try to flash #1, it errors with "device not found"

I hesitate to flash #2, would rather flash #1. #2 now debugs without error, but I'm trying to resolve the problem on #1.

Can these chips be re-formatted or reset somehow? What could be wrong in the Launchpad, that is ok in the Hawkeye?

Stan/Kamel There are a number of geared motors both on axis and right angle in 12V with the same pricing. I didn't check the measurements on all.

This one has a variety of speed choices, presumably the same torque on any speed.

https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-El...hi&sr=1-3&th=1

Kamel, does your damaged film have partial tears or completely torn thru the frame?